In the book Guenevere, Queen of the Summer Country by Rosalind Miles, Inverness is a city of interest and jumped off the map during the planning of the Scotland part of my trip. I've always loved stories of Camelot and Guinevere's role in the legends but Miles takes it all to a next level. I actually love all of her books but that's a whole other post. I had no expectations of the city and my Things to Do list was pretty short with the Inverness Museum and Art Gallery, the Inverness Cathedral, and Inverness Castle being the only three entries. Of course, bookshops, Charity stores, and somewhere cute to have lunch are stationary on every town's list. The temperature has gone down a bit and I wanted to specifically search the charity shops for a wool or cashmere sweater. At the prices I've seen so far, there is absolutely no need to wear anything less. The bus station is just off the city center and I was greeted by the Victorian Center entryway which beckoned me to cross the street and wander around. It is a passageway filled with an interesting mix of businesses from a fish mongers to a florist with cafes and gift shops scattered throughout. I popped in to Cafe de Paulo to get my sense of direction acclimated and grab a scone and coffee for breakfast. Perfect choice. I sat a small table tucked toward the back and enjoyed a bit of people watching while a ate and consulted Google maps. I was disappointed to find the the used bookstore, Leaky's, that I'd recently learned about from TikTok, was well over a mile away and probably not an option because it was supposed to rain and I'm not a fan off getting completely soaked. The museum and the castle were close though and I headed out. Within a few blocks I was mesmerized. The Inverness Town House is stunning, with it's stately lamppost and wolf sculptures on either side of the front door. A bagpiper was playing for donations which further set the scene. That is until he started Amazing Grace and my stomach churned. While I've gotten used to the instrument, mostly because there's no choice here, any tilt to religious pieces pushes me back to massive firefighter funerals. My search for the museum began again immediately. It is an interesting facade has a decidedly modern design of a glass front and curved edge on just one side. Entry is free but accepts donations. The lady working the desk explained the flow of the exhibits and explaining that the cafe was closed because they don't have enough people to work but, if I found something in the gift shop, to let her know and she'd be happy to help me. There is a shortage of workers across Scotland. I learned this from a BBC broadcast on Scotland's wanting different immigration rules and England determining one country will maintain one set of rules. Scotland also continuously debates seceding from the United Kingdom. I don't have a dog in that fight but sincerely hope they wouldn't join the EU thus limiting my Visa time to a measly three months instead of the much appreciated six. The museum is small but pleasant with well designed historical elements downstairs and art shown upstairs. There is considerable focus on the art of masters from Scotland. Anne Redpath created extraordinary works, many of which were reminiscent of Matisse. She and her contemporaries, known as The Edinburgh School, would otherwise remain unknown to me which made the trip invaluable. After the museum, the River Ness required some exploration. There are a few walking bridges adding to the idyllic scenery. A statue of three women, Faith, Hope, and Charity lured me to the Ness Bank Church which was surprisingly open to visitors. After being spoiled in Paris, where almost every church is open, this is only the second I've found in Scotland. Greeting visitors at the door were two of the most charming gentlemen who generated exactly the type of excited welcome one should receive at a church. They encouraged me to wander as much as I liked and take all the pictures I wanted. The pine pews sat comfortably by the marble pillars that supported an arched wooden ceiling. A beautiful organ was framed as if it was precious art (I would argue that it was because I love organs and it is recognized as one of Scotland's finest pipe organs) front and center with the lectern situated slightly to the left. There are six small, intricately designed stained glass windows with a most intense depth of color. Seating is for about 600 giving it a cozy feel in opposition to the overwhelming grandeur of cathedrals in Paris.
Inverness is smaller than I expected but my perception has been off since day one of planning when, in my head, all countries were about the size if the US. Scotland, in fact, is almost exactly the same size as my state, South Carolina, with almost the same population. That's pretty much where the likeness ends. The summer weather has been more comfortable, public transportation is phenomenal, there are small, independent bookshops everywhere, the butter and milk...suffice to say I am definitely a fan.
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